Southern Tier: Final Stats

I reached Ocean Beach in San Diego the afternoon of Wednesday May 25th. My route map played one last evil trick on me the last day of the trip. The map showed a delightful decent from the mountains to San Diego on the last day. Although this was true and I thoroughly enjoyed the easy ride to the city limits of San Diego the map neglected to note that the 25-30 miles through San Diego to reach the Pacific was a long route of roller coaster hills that tested every last bit of endurance that I had remaining in my tired sun-soaked body. Up and down, Up and down, next to bumper to bumper traffic I pedaled my way further into the city until I finally reached the Ocean Beach bike path. Before I could relax...my tour was over.



FINAL STATS:



Total miles pedaled: 2966.95. The original route was just shy of 3100 miles. I took several short-cuts in New Mexico and Arizona. Most of these deviations from the route involved pedaling on Interstate 10 and bypassing several mountain climbs and tourist areas. Traveling on Interstate 10 wasn't very interesting but the wide smooth shoulder provided some of the safest riding of the trip.

Average miles pedaled per day: 76.07. I completed the trip in 39 days. My goal was to finish in 40 days. If not for the short-cuts...achieving the 40 day goal would have been difficult. Of the 39 days, I traveled 36 (3 days of rest). Average miles pedaled on travel days: 82.41.

Break-down of miles per day:

More than 100 miles: 5 days. My longest day was 140. 07 miles. These 5 days accounted for 604.09 miles of the entire trip.

90-99.99 miles: 9 days. Two of these days were 99. something mile days. I guess I should have pedaled a few circles in a parking lot to reach a century for these days.

80-89.99 miles: 8 days.

70-79.99 miles: 4 days.

60-69.99 miles: 3 days.

50-59.99 miles: 4 days.

Less than 49.99 miles: 3 days.

Saddle Time: This refers to time spent sitting on the saddle of BIG RED while in motion...218 hours, 17 minutes, 52 seconds...OR..9 days, 2 hours, 17 minutes, 52 seconds...OR...1 week, 2 days, 2 hours, 17 minutes, 52 seconds.

Flat Tires: One. After completing half the trip all of the cross country bicyclists that I met couldn't believe how few flat tires I had. Most of the cross country cyclists had over 10 flats! Most of these cyclists were using the wrong tires...very narrow with not much road tread. This is an error most touring cyclists make. They sacrifice durability for speed. Many of the cross country cyclists that I met were basically using a racing tire...almost a "slick" tire. After this trip I have just under 9000 touring miles complete. Of all of those miles I've endured one (1) flat tire! I purchased a new set of tires in Del Rio, TX.

Below are photos taken between Phoenix AZ and Boulevard, CA. It's taken me a while to digest these 5 travel days as they were not easy and difficult to explain in words the trials I went through pedaling through desert that was more hostile than Texas or New Mexico. It didn't help matters much that I was sick. After explaining my symptoms to 2 nurses and doing some research on webmd.com I'm convinced that I had food poisoning...or, I consumed some bad water. It may have been both as I was very sick and close to going to an emergency room in Brawley, CA. Instead, I cowboyed up and continued on.

Just when I thought I was out of the desert...I pedaled into an oven. Locals told me that this portion between Blythe and Brawley, CA is used by NASA for simulated moon landings. The landscape was rocky and desolate.

Below, The Imperial Sand Dunes. After pedaling through moon-like landscapes I came upon these giant dunes. I just about lost it.
After the dunes came the green fruit and vegetable orchards of Brawley, CA. I assume these were coconut trees standing in front of pineapple plants,

baby spinach

JAVELINAS ATTACK!

Javelina are pig-like animals that travel in herds. As I pedaled through West Texas many of the small town general stores that I visited sold javelina merchandise such as "javelina crossing" signs, "have you kissed a javelina lately" stickers, and various garden/yard decorations shaped like a javelina. Until then, I've never heard of a pig-like animal called a javelina.

My first run in with a javelina happened in Texas between Sanderson and Marathon. It was early morning, but the sun was up and all of my lights were off. I was pedaling about 15mph when suddenly 5 or 6 javelina ran across the road in front of me. Although startled I was going fast enough to easily escape this small herd of javelinas. As I looked over my shoulder the javelinas were standing on the side of the road looking at me. I continued on my way.

A few mornings later, still in Texas, I departed Ft. Davis for Van Horn at 345am. About an hour into my ride I stopped half way up a hill to take a photo of the coming sun-rise. There was a bright orange line across the horizon but it was still dark. After snapping the photo, I stood up on my pedals to get enough momentum to start the ascent up the remainder of the hill. After only a few rotations and moving no more than 3mph I heard a loud "rushing" of brush from my right.

As I looked in that direction I saw countless animals running toward me. At this point these animals were about 10 feet away from me. Because I was going so slow and then being startled, I stopped pedaling and instinctively snapped out of my right pedal and placed that leg on the pavement. My left foot was still secure in its pedal (big mistake). All of this happened in 2-3 seconds.

As the charging animals approached the group separated with most running around my front tire and the rest running behind my back tire. At some point I realized these animals were javelinas. With my heart all ready racing I turned to my left in hopes of seeing the javelinas continue across the road into the thick brush. This didn't happen. The javelina slowed and re-grouped in the left lane of the highway.

I wanted out of this situation badly. As I pushed myself with my right foot to get enough movement to begin pedaling and re-snap into my right pedal, tragedy struck. Between the time my right foot left the ground and before I could snap it into the pedal I felt something wet and sticky above my right ankle. As I looked down I saw a big hairy javelina licking and slobbering on my lower leg.

I screamed loudly and attempted to raise my right leg at the same time kicking at the javelina. Right when I did this I knew I was in trouble. I was on an incline, going as close to zero mph as humanly possible with my left foot snapped into my pedal and my right foot kicking a javelina. I lost my balance, feel to my left, and hit the pavement hard.

Because I fell to my left and my left foot was still secure in the pedal I couldn't move. This was a problem due to the fact that it was dark and I was literally surrounded by what I estimated to be about 20-25 snorting and grunting javelinas. As I began to kick my left leg to try to get free of the pedal a few of the javelinas begin to lick my helmet. Although I couldn't feel this...I could hear it and I let out another scream.

A few seconds later I must have kicked or twisted my left foot just right as it became free from the pedal. As I pulled and dragged myself out from under BIG RED the javelinas began licking my arms and legs. I don't know what was scarier, the sound of their loud licking and slobbering or all of the snorting and grunting they were doing.

Once out from under BIG RED I placed both of my hands on the handlebars and in one motion stood up. I then began running and pushing BIG RED up the hill until I achieved enough momentum to jump on the bicycle and pedal away. As I looked over my shoulder the javelinas continued their journey across the road in the brush. The next mile I pedaled as fast as I could.

Except for a couple of scraps on my left leg I was fine. Once I reached Van Horn I recounted my ordeal with a few locals. Although all agreed that the javelinas were using me as a human salt-lick, they disagreed on the potential danger of the ordeal. One man described javelinas as docile creatures that wouldn't hurt a fly, let alone a bicyclist. However, another man described them as mean animals that when provoked are known to eat small animals and on rare occasions attack humans if threatened.

I don't know which man was correct. I do know that I was scared out of my mind and am confident that my screams were so loud and chilling that if there were other bicyclists behind me in the dark they would have turned around in terror and headed back to Ft. Davis.



I found the top 2 photos of javelinas on line. Once I saw the top photo I became more inclined to believe the second man who insinuated that javelina's can be mean creatures. The photo below is a photo of 3 javelinas that I spotted about 10 miles Southeast of Van Horn.

Bicycles and Bridges

I met these guys Friday morning along the Arizona Canal Bike Path in Phoenix. They were off their bicycles investigating a bicycle frame chained to a fence. They said the night before the entire bicycle was there and that they warned a friend not to leave it over night. The bicycle was stripped clean. As we talked I asked them if they lived in Phoenix. The middle gentleman responded "We live all over Phoenix...Mostly under bridges". The 3 men laughed. I replied with "So, you guys are homeless?" The middle gentleman said with a grin with the other 2 men laughing, "No, I said we live under bridges". I laughed with them, wished them a good day, and was on my way.

Globe - Phoenix...Day 33

Day 33 was dominated by mountains and urban bicycling conditions. Above is a long distance view of Hwy 60. I screamed down that hill going 45mph. The mountain behind it...I climbed up and over it before 7am. The conditions were cloudy and cold....the coldest morning yet. As my fingers, legs and toes became numb I thought back and counted all of the mountain passes that I've conquered on a bicycle. Including this one, Signal Mountain Pass, I counted 15. All 15 have something in common...I thought I was going to freeze to death before I reached the bottom of the other side of the pass. In all 15 situations climbing wasn't the problem...the decent is where the cold rips through my sweaty clothing. I couldn't wait to get to the next town, Superior, AZ., so I could load up on some hot chocolate.
Queen Creek Tunnel

Decent from Signal Mountain Pass

Picketpost Mountain...West of Superior, AZ.

After the mountains it was literally all down hill to the Phoenix metropolitan area. I wasn't looking forward to this day as Adventure Cycling maps weakest attribute is getting bicyclists through large cities. However, on this day I was pleasantly surprised. The Adventure Cycling map followed a city bicycle route through Apache Junction, Mesa, Tempe, and into Phoenix. After pedaling 89.44 miles I checked into a hotel. I will wait to give my final verdict of Adventure Cycling's route through the Phoenix metropolitan area until tomorrow when I pedal through the remainder of Phoenix and then Glendale, Peoria, and Surprise.

Trip Stats

Total miles pedaled: 2566.87

Route miles pedaled: 2601

Saddle time: 185:14'53

Miles ahead of schedule: 60

In 2006, on day 33 of my cross country trip I ended the day with 2557.14 miles. I spent the night in Minot, ND.

Safford - Globe...Day 32

The photo above was taken on Day 31 about 10 miles Northwest of Duncan, AZ. Although I only pedaled 41.57 miles, it wasn't an easy day. To get out of the Gila River Valley, I had to conquer a 10 mile climb to get to level terrain. The level terrain didn't provide any relief due to the strong headwind greeting me once the climb was over.

After arriving in Safford, I wasn't done dealing with the wind. The entire town was under a high wind advisory. This is why I decided to have a short day. After finding lodging I tried to go for a walk. It was nearly imposable. I had to lean into the wind to walk West on a sidewalk. It was windy day in Safford!

Day 32: I was worried about today's wind all day yesterday. I checked weather.com every half hour and each time received the same information. All night long winds 5-10 mph, which is very manageable, and then beginning at 9am an increase of 5mph each hour until reaching a max of 40mph.
To combat the wind I set my alarm for 330am. My goal was to be on the road for 4am to beat as much of the wind as possible. Despite some killer roller-coaster hills and frigid temps I made it to Globe 77.40 miles later by 11am. As I arrived in Globe the wind began to howl. Day 32: Wind, zero...BIG RED & Jamie, 1.

All 3 photos of the saguaro cactus were taken while pedaling through the San Carlos Apache Reservation. If you are ever out West and want a unique experience...visit an Indian Reservation. It's a entire different world.

The photo below was taken East of Peridot, AZ as clouds began to roll in. Now, I was trying to beat the wind and race the rain clouds. As I write this there is a steady rain coming down in Globe. For the entire trip I've pedaled in 30-45 minutes of rain.

Below is a picture of Kenneth. Halfway between Peridot and Globe I noticed something ahead of me on the shoulder. I assumed it was another bicyclist. As I got closer I couldn't believe my eyes. It was a man pushing a shopping cart full of...stuff. The left front wheel was clack, clack, clacking just like a bad cart in a grocery store. Where did this guy come from? How long had he been pushing this cart? Was he homeless? I was determined to find out.

I pedaled around him, said hello and then asked "What's going on?" He introduced himself as Kenneth and said "Just pushing my cart...heading to Safford". I replied, "What's in Safford?" He said Safford was the next large town on his journey to the East Coast. I replied "BULLSHIT!" Kenneth replied "No bullshit!"

We were on Hwy 70. I began to think about the terrain I just covered over the last 60 miles. Although manageable, I was having a difficult time getting BIG RED and all of my gear up and over all of the roller-coaster hills. I knew more of the same was in store for me before I arrived in Globe. To think Kenneth pushed this cart with a bad front left wheel was difficult to believe.

"Kenneth, are you trying to tell me that You pushed that cart all the way from Globe?" Kenneth replied, "No, I started pushing it 4 months ago in Los Angeles." I didn't push him and took him at his word. As I checked him out, he looked really bad...almost malnourished.

I asked him if he had enough water and offered all I had. He refused and said he had over 5 gallons in his cart. I asked him if he had enough food and offered him some granola bars. Again, he refused and said he had all kinds of snacks in his cart. I then asked if he needed some cash. He politely said "No Thank You...what I really need is a cigarette." I couldn't help him with that, but I did say "If there was absolutely one thing that you needed, what would it be?" Kenneth looked to the ground and said "Well...If you had a cigarette, I guess it wouldn't matter because I don't have any matches". I dismounted BIG RED and reached my arm into one of my panniers searching for my emergency kit. When I found it, I took out a full book of matches and a bic lighter and handed them over to Kenneth. He thanked me with a huge smile. After taking his picture I wished him safe travels and was on my way.

At the first gas station in Globe I stopped so I could replace the lighter and matches. At the counter I asked the attendant if she had seen a guy pushing a cart East on Hwy 70 sometime yesterday. She said yes and that over the past 2 weeks travelers have been stopping to get gas and mentioning that there was a guy coming this way pushing a shopping cart. She said as the days went by travelers reported him getting closer...70 miles away, 60 miles down the road, 50 miles West of here, 40 miles at the next town...

Kenneth...Godspeed!

TRIP STATS:

Total miles pedaled: 2477.42

Route miles pedaled: 2517

Saddle time: 178:20'34

Miles ahead of schedule: 53

Deming NM - Duncan AZ...Day 30

The farther West I get, the larger the yucca plants get...Cage, NM
Not surprisingly, once I crossed the Continental Divide...the route became a gentle grade down hill.

Another fire. I first noticed the smoke yesterday as I neared Deming. Because of the distance I assumed it was a large dust cloud. I've seen many of these over the last week or so. At first they look like clouds but as you approach them they have a dull tan or brown color to them. However, once I closed in I realized it was flumes of smoke from a fire. As you can see from the picture below, the smoke reached for miles across the horizon.

I was planning on ending my day in Lordsburg, NM. However, I reached that destination a little before 9am. I already had 60 miles completed so I pedaled around town looking for a place to eat breakfast. As I did this I came to a realization: Lordsburg, NM is a ghost town waiting to happen. Most of the buildings looked like they were condemed and the ones that had actually businesses in them looked like they should be condemed. After eating breakfast I decided to chance the wind and head to the next town on the map, Duncan AZ. I've followed Interstate 10 for the last 2 days and part of the 2 days before that. I was ready for a change of scenery. Hwy 70 extends Northwest of Lordsburg. It is a gem of a highway. It provides great views of hilly desert and it has nice wide shoulder.

I was sad. I only spent a little more than 48 hours in one of my all-time favorite states, New Mexico.

While in Lordsburg I called information and asked to be connected to any hotel/motel in Duncan. I was told there was only one listing: The Simpson Hotel. When I spoke to Deborah, the owner of the hotel, on the phone she explained that she enjoys having cyclists stay at her establishment so she cut me a great deal. When I reached Duncan I was surprised to find out that The Simpson Hotel is a beautiful B&B. As I type this, I'm sitting in the steady drinking a fresh ice cold glass of tea. I'm the only guest at The Simpson Hotel this evening. Check out The Simpson website: www.simpsonhotel.com

Below, a view of Duncan, AZ from a hilltop behind town.

I pedaled much farther than I expected to today. After arriving in Duncan BIG RED and I traveled 102.56 miles. Tomorrow will be a short 45-50 mile day to Safford, AZ. There is a major windstorm brewing in the Southwest. For the last 2 days local weather forecasts have been calling for 50-60 mph winds for Wednesday and Thursday of this week. There is no way I'm getting caught in anything like that again as once and twice was enough in Louisiana and West Texas. Winds are expected to pick up tomorrow afternoon. If I can make to Safford AZ by noon, I will consider the day a success.

Trip Stats:

Total miles pedaled: 2358.44

Average miles pedaled for trip: 78.61

Average miles pedaled on travel days: 84.23

Saddle time: 168 hours, 53 minutes, 53 seconds

Las Cruces - Deming...Day 29

Leaving Las Cruces. This photo was taken on Interstate 10. For the next 3 days I will be off route. After doing some calculations I decided pedal West from Las Cruces instead of going North. This 3 day detour/short-cut will only reduce distance by 40-45 miles. However, it will save several thousand feet of elevation climb. Also, it might cut 1-2 days from the trip. Today, I pedaled 61.61 miles.
My 3rd immigration checkpoint of the trip. For the record...border control officers don't appreciate wiseguys. When I was asked "Are you a U.S. citizen?" I replied, "Corn feed and hand spanked from Iowa". The border control officer paused, took his dark sunglasses off, tilted his head to look straight in my eyes and said "Answer the question. Are you a U.S. citizen?" I quickly replied "Yes Sir". He then directed me to "Get the hell on your way!" I obliged and didn't look back.

This is always a comforting sign to see. After pedaling 15 miles, there was another sign saying the same thing.

They talk and spell funny down here in the Southwest.

Spending the night in Deming, NM. If you ever find yourself in Southern New Mexico I highly recommend visiting The Deming Luna Mimbres Museum. The museum is in an old armory
and holds thousands of treasures that I couldn't believe were under one roof.

I love these old motel signs. Many of you have asked me where I have been sleeping at night. When I see a sign like this advertising a room for $30, its hard for me to pay $20 at a local camp ground. Below are pictures of what $30 (yes, $30...I offered to pay cash so the motel's proprietor did not charge me tax) gets you in Southern New Mexico. It's basically a small apartment.

Fabens, TX - Las Cruces, NM...Day 28

First, a little about Day 27. The above photo was taken North of Sierra Blanca on a frontage road along side Interstate 10. It was a cold morning. My fingers and feet were numb long before the sun came up. Despite the cold, it was a great day of bicycling. BIG RED and I finished the day with 99.26 miles pedaled. Del Rio to Van Horn provided very little service stops during the day. For the past week I carried so much extra nourishment that I felt I was hauling a fruit and granola cart. Because Van Horn signaled a return to civilization, I was able to dump (actually, I had fruit and granola for dinner) the extra water and food. Also, in Ft. Davis I sent home 5 pounds of belongings. If I hadn't used an item since departing St. Augustine...I sent it home. On day 27, BIG RED felt lighter and pedaled faster. I sometimes forget...the lightest thing I can carry is a credit card.
Day 28: I entered El Paso by 7am. The city was asleep. For a metropolitan area that boosts over 566, 000 persons I couldn't believe how dead the streets were. Above, this was the closest I came to the Mexican border...Juarez.

Below, I met these friendly bicycle border patrol officers. I wonder if they're hiring?

Share the roads with bicycles...and tumble weeds.

onion field

cotton field

church...San Miguel, New Mexico

Ahhh...shade! This stretch on Hwy 28 near San Miguel was nearly 3 miles long. I think it was the first long stretch of shade that I pedaled in since central Louisiana. I will never take shade for granted again.

At an ice cream shop near San Miguel I met Linda and Wynona. The ladies were out for a Saturday bike ride. Sorry ladies...I had the wind...and I deserved it! :-)

The highlight of the day was crossing the border of New Mexico. The people of Texas were some of the kindest people I've ever met while on tour. I look forward to a return visit. However, the return visit will not be on a bicycle. As of today, pedaling BIG RED across the great state of Texas is the most challenging and frustrating physical accomplishment that I've ever endured. The feat will be placed in the "never do that again" file of my life. I finished the day with 77.42 miles pedaled.

TRIP STATS:

Total miles pedaled: 2194.26

Route miles poedaled: 2195.5

Saddle time: 157:08'46

Curses directed to the wind while pedaling a cross Texas: uncountable